Every winter, dermatologists receive complaints of a similar nature. “The moisturiser no longer works.” “The skin has suddenly turned into a sensitive one.” “How come my face looks so lifeless?” “My legs are extremely dry.” Though these are various concerns, there is often a connection between them because skin adapts to new circumstances.
Winter skincare tips always start with one suggestion – to use a heavier moisturiser. It is true, but it is not the whole story. Proper winter skincare routine must account for changes in the skin caused by temperature and humidity conditions, bath rituals, central heating, windy weather, etc. It must support the proper functioning of skin in the winter rather than add more products to its care.
Your skin is constantly adapting to its environment
However, the epidermis’ outer layer, called the stratum corneum, is referred to as the body’s barrier. While this is true, such description might portray the skin as a passive wall that simply blocks any form of penetration. On the contrary, the skin changes constantly in reaction to what goes on around it.
The skin layer consists of skin cells that are specialized and surrounded by an ordered blend of lipids. They include ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids. In addition, there are moisturizing agents such as amino acids, among other water-retaining molecules. As a result, this skin structure enables the skin’s outer layer to stay elastic while at the same time retaining moisture.
However, winter presents a different environment, which makes things even tougher for the skin. Cold weather means reduced moisture in the air, while heating indoors creates another dry environment. This means that the skin now has to keep its moisture balance under less favourable conditions. Studies of the impact of the environment on the skin have indicated that cold and dryness affect skin barrier and make it susceptible to drying and irritation.(1)
This is why winter doesn’t necessarily create an entirely new skin problem. It can expose how well your skin is coping with environmental stress.
Winter texture isn’t always a call for exfoliation
One of the most intriguing transformations one notices in the winter months is texture. The skin can feel rougher, be paler, or look flakier than usual. In such cases, it is natural to exfoliate.
However, here is when an understanding of skin biology would come handy.
The top layer of skin sheds its dead cells through the process of desquamation. When everything is fine, it happens regularly and unnoticed. This process relies on enzymes that function properly in the water-filled environment of the stratum corneum.
If the outer skin layer becomes too dry, proper shedding could become disorganized. The surface cells could stay on for longer periods of time resulting in roughness and flaking.(2) It means that sometimes flakes do not show up because of the excess of dead skin but rather because of the problems with skin’s proper functioning.
It is an important point to consider because regular exfoliation of a dry skin could result in a vicious circle. If your skin is in trouble, the removal of its surface is not the obvious way to solve it.
The dermatologist would also consider the state of the skin before prescribing further exfoliation. In case where the skin is dry and rough and can easily get irritated, it might be helpful to improve moisturization rather than exfoliation.
Why your face and body experience winter differently
One issue with generic advice about winter skincare tips is the belief that the season impacts the whole body equally.
But it doesn’t.
The structure of different skin zones varies, the density of sebaceous glands is different, and the exposure differs. The skin of the face is exposed to the environment throughout the day, not to mention the possible exposure to active skincare ingredients. The skin of the body is subject to constant bathing, clothing friction, and frequent hot water exposure. Skin of hands goes through an especially hard cycle of washing, drying, disinfection, cold exposure and washing again.
That is how someone may have comfortable facial skin but extremely dry hands, or a combination of a greasy forehead with the dryest legs.
There is no need for the universal winter skincare product here. It can be a change in the approach in accordance with the skin zone. The face may benefit from a slightly richer moisturiser. The skin of the body would appreciate a cream or butter rich in emollients, while the skin of hands requires constant reapplication of salve due to continuous barrier challenge caused by washing.
Why winter can make your skin look older
Winter skin can also be frustrating for another reason: It can make one look momentarily old.
If the outer layers of the skin are well-hydrated, the skin surface appears smoother, and the skin glows by reflecting light properly. As soon as the outer layer dries and becomes uneven, fine lines and differences in texture become visible. The application of makeup becomes different, and the skin loses its glow.
It does not imply that one is looking older due to skin ageing caused by the winter season.
Often, what one is experiencing is the change in hydration and skin texture of the surface.
It is crucial to know because we all have a natural reaction to deal with dullness with aggressive exfoliation and adding several active ingredients. But in case one deals with dry skin, hydration and soothing the skin will help a lot.
Why a richer moisturiser isn’t automatically a better one
Here lies the relevance of formulation science over marketing.
Winter skincare products do not have to be super rich or thick. The most important thing lies in the function of the formulation.
There are humectants that help attract water and keep the skin moist. There are emollients that help condition the skin and reduce any roughness. There are occlusives that help to minimize the loss of water from the skin. There are barrier associated lipids, like ceramides, which contribute to the lipid profile of the stratum corneum.
All these functions are complementary to each other.
It is also the reason behind the fact that a skincare product cannot be decided on the basis of a single ingredient. Just because a product contains ceramides does not make it superior to the one that does not have it.
The performance is determined by the entire formulation.
In case of winter skincare, the question you must ask yourself is not whether the product contains the latest ingredient or not.
Instead, the question you must ask is whether the formulation provides the required performance or not.
What about plant butters?
And this is something that becomes very significant for body care.
Shea and mango butter are emollient materials that are able to add to the softness and conditioning of dry skin. (3) They may help to enrich the formulation with a more luxurious profile, which is more preferable in cold weather due to the uncomfortable condition of skin.
But it is crucial to understand that the butter should not play all roles.
The right approach would be to formulate products with emollient materials along with humectants and other moisturizing ingredients. The good barrier restore skin salve will provide the opportunity to use a more holistic approach to dry skin during winter rather than to repair it with one ingredient.
It can be very helpful in the case of body care, where the areas like shins, elbows, knees and hands may need extra care during winter.
Winter doesn’t mean stopping every active ingredient
Another common response to winter is abandoning the whole skin-care regimen.
It doesn’t always have to be the case.
If you tolerate retinoids, exfoliating acids, or any other active ingredients well all year around, the onset of winter doesn’t automatically imply that you have to give up on using them. The thing that might have to change is the frequency of use and tolerance to them.
Again, it depends on the skin’s reaction.
If something that worked perfectly well for your skin before winter becomes irritating, the adjustment of its frequency might be preferable than sticking to the same schedule. If your skin continues tolerating everything well, there is probably no point in making any unnecessary changes.
A dermatologist’s way of thinking about winter skincare
From a dermatological standpoint, the most valuable inquiry is “What has changed in the skin and what is causing this change?
If the skin is rough, focus on hydration and moisturization. If the skin becomes irritated, evaluate the entire skin care routine for possible irritants. If some skin areas are particularly dry, think about using a different texture and frequency of use. If a preexisting skin problem flares up, one should not take it for granted that it is winter skin dryness.
This last piece of advice is very important. Persistent redness, strong itching, painful cracking, oozing, and a rash that does not resolve should not be considered seasonal skin dryness by default.
A note from our organic skincare formulator and dermatologist
A barrier-first approach doesn’t mean covering the skin with the heaviest possible product. It means understanding what the skin needs at that particular time of year and formulating accordingly. Hydration, emollience, barrier support and sensory comfort all matter because a product only works as part of a routine when the skin can tolerate it and the person will use it consistently.
Formulation philosophy is another thing to consider here.
In The Good Hygiene Company, winter care of the skin does not entail having a completely different relationship with the skin. It entails working towards providing the skin with the kind of help it needs in dealing with conditions that are likely to affect its texture and appearance in winter.
That entails cleansing without being too aggressive, selecting moisturizers on the basis of the needs of each area and adding some conditioning components like shea and mango butters to body-care products.
The idea is not to pile on layers of product.
The goal is to formulate products that work with the skin.
Conclusion
The best winter skincare routine isn’t always the most extensive one. The best winter skincare regimen is the one that reacts to what the winter season is doing to your skin.
You may need a heavier formula in certain parts of your body and lighter formulations on other parts of your body. You might need less exfoliation but not too much. You might need more frequent body moisturization while your face remains largely unaltered. You might find that your perfect summer formula isn’t working anymore once the temperature falls and the air gets colder.
This doesn’t mean your skin is suddenly erratic or temperamental.
This means skin is affected by its surroundings.
Winter season is thus a helpful reminder of what great skincare should be all about – not changing the skin, but understanding it.
The barrier-first strategy starts with that very point.
Protect skin from itself. Help your skin through its challenges in the season. Make adjustments if you must. But let the regimen follow the skin instead of constantly changing it.
FAQ
- Should I change my skincare routine in winter?
Yes. Your skin may need seasonal adjustments as temperature and humidity change. You may need richer moisturisation, less frequent exfoliation, or different textures without necessarily replacing your entire routine.
- Why does my skin look duller in winter?
Lower hydration and an accumulation of rough surface cells can make skin reflect light less evenly, making the complexion appear dull and textured. Supporting hydration and normal skin shedding can improve its appearance.
- Can oily skin become dry in winter?
Yes. Oil production and skin hydration are different things. Oily or combination skin can still experience increased dryness or dehydration when environmental conditions become colder and less humid.
- Should I use a thicker moisturiser in winter?
Not automatically. A richer moisturiser can be useful if your skin is becoming noticeably dry, but the ideal texture depends on your skin type and the level of environmental stress. Some of us may only need to increase moisturisation on specific areas.
- Should I stop using active ingredients in winter?
Not necessarily. If your skin tolerates retinoids, exfoliating acids or other actives well, there is no universal reason to stop them. However, if your skin becomes more reactive, reducing their frequency may be more appropriate than continuing the same schedule.
- Why does winter make fine lines look more visible?
Dryness can temporarily make fine lines and surface texture appear more pronounced. When the outer skin layer becomes less hydrated, the surface can look rougher and less smooth, making existing lines more noticeable.
- Is sunscreen necessary during winter?
Yes. UV exposure does not disappear when temperatures fall or the sky is cloudy. Sunscreen should remain part of your daily routine throughout the year.
- When should I use a barrier repair cream?
A barrier repair cream may be useful when skin is persistently dry, rough or uncomfortable and needs additional moisturising support. However, ongoing redness, severe itching, cracking or a persistent rash should be assessed by a dermatologist rather than assumed to be ordinary winter dryness.
References
- The effect of environmental humidity and temperature on skin barrier function and dermatitis – 2015 Oct – https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/26449379/
- Skin Barrier Dysfunction in Chronic Dermatoses: From Pathophysiology to Emerging Therapeutic Strategies – 2025 Jun – https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC12304493/
- The Role of Moisturizer Containing Anti-inflammatory on Skin Hydration in Mild-Moderate Atopic Dermatitis Patients – 2024 Dec – https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC11685320/
